| btrautman |
| CEG'er |
|
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| Reged: 11/13/01 |
| Posts: 1176 |
| Loc: Austin, TX. | |
|
Well i've
ordered a replacement flexplate and new torque converter 11". No I
have to figure out how to press the rear seal in place. hammering it
just won't due for this large seal. Any ideas??
I debating
whether I should replace my rack and pinion assembly since I'm down
this far. I've never had any problems with
it......
--------------------
An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
Post
Extras: 
 
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| btrautman |
| CEG'er |
|
|
| Reged: 11/13/01 |
| Posts: 1176 |
| Loc: Austin, TX. | |
|
Well I finally
received my piston rings, bearings, etc. I just found out tonight
that I am short 2 torqe to yield main bolts that I'm hoping my local
Ford dealer has in town.
The rings I purchase are standard
Hastings chrome moly rings. In checking the Haynes manual it says
the end gap on top compression ring should be between .004 to
.010
In reading the Hastings material that came with the
rings they say that the MINIMUM ring gap is .004 per inch of bore. I
figure that equates to about .014 for this engine. As you can see
the Hastings Minimum exceeds specs in Haynes manual. When I measure
my actual top compression ring end gap I get .019
The range
according to .006 plus minus....I figure with the same range that
would put me at a upper limit of say .020
Does this sound
resonable?
Bob
--------------------
An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
Post
Extras:
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| eepals |
| CEG'er |
|
|
| Reged: 03/05/02 |
| Posts: 496 |
| Loc: NJ | |
|
Wish I had a
scanner, According to the 96 Factory Service Manual:
Piston Ring
Gap (Specification 82.4mm diameter gauge)*
Top Compression
0.100-0.250mm
(0.0039-0.0098)inch
Bottom Compression
0.27-0.42mm
(0.0106-0.0165 inch)
Oil Ring (Steel Rail)
0.15-0.65mm
(0.0059-0.0255 inch)
Compression (Top) 0.50mm
Max
Service Limit (0.0196 inch)
Compression (Bottom) 0.65mm
Max
Service Limit (0.0255 inch)
Oil Ring 0.90mm Max
Service
Limit (0.0354 inch)
* footnote
Post
Extras:
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| btrautman |
| CEG'er |
|
|
| Reged: 11/13/01 |
| Posts: 1176 |
| Loc: Austin, TX. | |
|
Well I spoke
with Hastings Manufacturing and they said with the 2.5L engine and
the type of oil rings used, minimum end gap is .010 and I could go
as high as .028 before I need to bore and use oversized
pistons.
This engineer made my day!!
I have
ordered the two missing main torque to yield bolts from the dealer
today. They will be in tomorrow. I can then begin block
assembly..pictures coming
soon!!!!
--------------------
An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
Post
Extras:
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| btrautman |
| CEG'er |
|
|
| Reged: 11/13/01 |
| Posts: 1176 |
| Loc: Austin, TX. | |
|
Ok, here are
some recent pics....I had a busy day today.....
The
most nervous part that I had about this assemble so far was
installing the timing chains. I did set crank at 11 o'clock position
and checked that no 1 piston was at top dead center by viewing
crank/rod from underneath and ensuring piston was a maximum travel -
Once I was sure which cylinder was no one whiiiiich is as your
facing the front of the engine and not the front of the car, but as
facing the front of the engine it is the first cylinder up against
the firewall closet to the front of the engine....sheesh....
Anyways, I then installed the timing chains with the yellow
dots on the chain lined up with the camshaft gears and crank gear -
also checked the arrows on back and they were aligned.....Jasper
Tech bulletin on 96 - 99 2.5L Contours did make me nerous!!!! Once
these were lined up I then installed tension guides, etc. Next was
to insert lifters and rocker arms under cams. Once under cams I
torqued down cam fasteners, leaving the thrust fastener for last.
Once I did this for the left head, I then rotated the crank two
times and then set the keyway at 3 o'clock and then did the same for
the right hand side. I then popped the tensioners once I was sure
everything was right. As a check I did follow the Jasper Tech
bulletin and counted my links between cover, cams, crank, etc. and
it matched exactly...took me a few minutes to figure out that it
would be a number of revolutions before I could get the original
yellow dots on the chains to match up again - been a long day......
With this 95, I did install the special Ford kit for
installing modified tensioners to stop chain rattle upon startup
because of lack of oil. I purchased the tensioners and backing plate
for the tensioners from Bill and I purhased 96 chain, guies,
tensioner arms, etc. These special tensioners allow you to use 96
components instead of 95. Purchased a good portion of the timing
parts from http://www.autopartsgiant.com./ All timing parts
were from melling.
Tomorrow, I'll install timing cover, oil
pan, intakes and injectors, power steering pump and a/c.....then I
should be closes to dropping this back in with my rebuilt
tranny......
Time to have a beer it has been a looong day!!!!
--------------------
An ounce of prevention provides
a pound of cure!
Edited by Lance
Kinley (12/04/04 02:01 PM)
Post Extras:
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| Quick_SVT |
| Hard-core CEG'er |
|
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| Reged: 12/29/02 |
| Posts: 1605 |
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dude i wish i
knew how to rebuild a motor... i'd be running a oval port 3l liter
with the workz  that is
awesome work...
--------------------
#3162 of 6535
98
SVT Silver frost
Viper Responder 791 w/ 2way remote start 
Let the modding begin!
Post Extras:
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| unisys12 |
| Hard-core CEG'er |
|
|
| Reged: 09/08/02 |
| Posts: 3944 |
| Loc: Corinth, MS | |
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Great progress
BT... Keep it up! 
--------------------
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This
storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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| fastcougar |
| Hard-core CEG'er |
|
|
| Reged: 05/30/00 |
| Posts: 1336 |
| Loc: Kearneysville, WV | |
|
Great progress
Bob!
Could you shoot me an email/PM with the part numbers for
the timing guides? I have the beefier tensioners (changed when they
changed the chain/sprocket thickness in 01) and I want to use new
guides (96-00) as the ones I have are worn.
--------------------
For Sale: 1997 Explorer XLT V8 AWD
Post Extras:
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| btrautman |
| CEG'er |
|
|
| Reged: 11/13/01 |
| Posts: 1176 |
| Loc: Austin, TX. | |
|
I've assembled
the timing cover, fastened down oil pan, purchase new dispstick with
indicator - I bumped into the old one and the handle snapped off!
Installed new revised dMD damper. I purchased two new front wheel
bearings and took the steering knuckles over to my local machine
shop. He is pressing out the old and pressing in the new for a total
price of 50 dollars. Tomorrow I'll be installing flywheel, torque
converter and fastening up atx to engine. I still have to figure a
way of installing the rear main seal without tearing it up......
This weekend I should have the tranny and motor back in the
car.......
--------------------
An ounce of prevention
provides a pound of cure!
Post Extras:
|
| btrautman |
| CEG'er |
|
|
| Reged: 11/13/01 |
| Posts: 1176 |
| Loc: Austin, TX. | |
|
Well I
installed a bit of loctite on the outer rim of my rear main seal to
ensure it would not come loose. Picked up a new tc and installed it.
connected atx to engine, tighned tc bolts and installed intermediate
shaft and mount.
Dropped engine in car from above. Took
about 2 hours by the time i had all the mounts fastened. Connected
alternator wiring when engine was halfway in. Tomorrow I will begin
to connect wiring, etc.
Took a week of vacation next week to
finish all this
up......
Bob
--------------------
An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
Post
Extras:
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